Jewelry 101

A Multi-Faceted Approach To Understanding Diamonds

DIAMONDOLOGY

A diamond is a mineral composed essentially of carbon crystallized at extremely high temperatures and pressures; in nature, diamonds form 150 to 200 kilometers (93 to 124 miles) or more below the earth's surface. Diamond is the hardest of all known natural substances (10 on the Mohs scale); its refractive index is 2.417, dispersion 0.044, specific gravity 3.52, and its luster is adamantine.

Diamond forms in the cubic, or isometric, crystal system, has four directions of perfect octahedral cleavage, and shows a step-like fracture surface. Its color ranges from colorless to yellow, brown, gray, orange, green, blue, white, black, purple, pink, and, extremely rarely, red. Transparent and near colorless in a desirable color, diamond is a highly valued gemstone; poorly colored or heavily included single crystals are used for a wide variety of industrial purposes; polycrystalline material is crushed and used as an abrasive powder.

Diamonds are made up of pure carbon atoms that exist deep in the ground, exposed to intense heat and pressure over billions of years. Over time, this pressure builds up and forces the diamonds and rocks up toward the surface in a volcanic-like explosion. The explosion creates a very deep, wide hole called a "pipe" into which most of the diamonds settle; these deposits of diamonds are known as primary deposits. Other diamonds are washed away by water or erosion, and often settle into the coastal waters of nearby bodies of water; these are alluvial deposits. These deposits occur in many places around the globe; however, the largest commercial deposits exist in Angola, Australia, Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Russia and Zaire, which produce 80% of the world's diamonds.

A Brilliant History
Diamonds are thought to have been first recognized and mined in India, where significant alluvial deposits of the stone could then be found along the rivers Penne, Krishna and Guava. Diamonds have been known in India for at least 3000 years but most likely 6000 years.

The earliest written reference can be found in the Buddhist text Angostura Nike and in the Sanskrit text Arthashastra, which was completed around 296 BCE and describes diamond's hardness, luster, and dispersion. Diamonds quickly became associated with divinity, being used to decorate religious icons, and were believed to bring good fortune to those who carried them. Ownership was restricted among various castes by color, with only kings being allowed to own all colors of diamond.

In February 2005, a joint Chinese-U.S. team of archaeologists reported the discovery of four corundum-rich stone ceremonial burial axes originating from China's Liangzhu and Sanxingdui cultures (4000 BCE–2500 BCE) which, because of the axes' specular surfaces, the scientists believe were polished using diamond powder. Although there are diamond deposits now known to exist close to the burial sites, no direct evidence of coeval diamond mining has been found: the researchers came to this conclusion by polishing corundum using various lapidary abrasives and modern techniques then comparing the results using an atomic force microscope. At that scale, the surface of the modern diamond-polished corundum closely resembled that of the axes; however, the polishes of the latter were superior.[citation needed]Until the late Middle Ages, diamonds were most prized in their natural octahedral state, perhaps with the crystal surfaces polished to increase luster and remove foreign material. Around 1300, the flow of diamonds into Europe increased via Venice's trade network, with most flowing through the low country ports of Bruges, Antwerp, and Amsterdam.

During this time, the taboo against cutting diamonds into gem shapes, which was established over 1,000 years earlier in the traditions of India, ended allowing the development of diamond cutting technology to begin in earnest. By 1375, a guild of diamond polishers had been established at Nuremberg. Over the following centuries, various diamond cuts were introduced which increasingly demonstrated the fire and brilliance that makes diamonds treasured today: the table cut, the briolette (around 1476), the rose cut (mid-16th century), and by the mid-17th century, the Mazarin, the first brilliant cut diamond design. In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky developed an ideal round brilliant cut design that has set the standard for comparison of modern gems; however, diamond cuts have continued to be refined. Even with the use of computer technology, using a virtual diamond to test light return (performance), the formula by Marcel Tolkowsky for round diamonds, still gives the maximum performance of any diamond cut.

A CUT ABOVE THE REST
A newly mined rough diamond looks more like a piece of glass washed up on the beach than like the polished gems sold in jewelry stores. Bringing out their beauty requires the skill and art of a trained diamond cutter.

While incredibly precise, computerized machinery is now used in some parts of the cutting process for some diamonds, most of the work is still performed by hand using exacting and meticulous techniques passed down over the generations.

As a first step, cleaving or sawing is often used to separate the original rough into smaller, more workable pieces that will each eventually become an individual polished gem. Next, bruting grinds away the edges, providing the outline shape (for example, heart, oval or round) for the gem. Faceting is then done in two steps: during blocking, the table, culet, bezel and pavilion main facets are cut; afterward, the star, upper girdle and lower girdle facets are added.

Once the fully faceted diamond has been inspected and improved, it is boiled in hydrochloric and sulfuric acids to remove dust and oil. The diamond is then considered a finished, polished gem.

THE DIAMOND DIFFERENCE.
You’ve Just Got To “C” It!

Most people know little about diamonds.  That's why the American Gem Society came into existence over 70 years ago.  Thanks to Society members, we now have precise standards for evaluating diamonds, commonly known as the 4 Cs: Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight. 

The American Gem Society Diamond Grading Standards evaluate three of the four value factors — cut, color, and clarity — on its own 0 –10 scale.  0 (Zero) is the highest grade, and 10 is the lowest.  AGS "0" indicates an AGS Ideal Cut diamond that has no color and no inclusions or internal characteristics.  The three factors are expressed separately along with the fourth factor, the carat weight of the gemstone, for the final American Gem Society Grade.

While not everyone will share the same opinion as to what constitutes beauty, most people want a diamond that expresses their individual taste and personality. Here’s what you should consider first, however, before buying a diamond:

Cut
Of all the 4 Cs, cut has the greatest effect on a diamond's beauty.  In grading, cut evaluates the cutters skill in the fashioning of the diamond. Diamonds have a unique ability to manipulate light efficiently. This unique ability can be released and maximized only by cutting and polishing the diamond to an extremely high level of accuracy. The American Gem Society Cut Grading System considers not only the proportions of a diamond, but also the craftsmanship of its overall symmetry and polish. It is unique in that it uses the latest in technology to analyze the cut’s impact on the diamond’s light performance.

THE MOST PRECIOUS GIFT YOU CAN GIVE...NO MATTER HOW YOU CUT IT.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) sorts diamond cuts into basic categories that are based on the style and arrangement of a diamond's facets, those little flat "faces" on the side of a gemstone.

Brilliant Cut Diamonds
Brilliant cut diamonds have facets that are shaped like triangles and kites. The facets radiate outwards and are positioned so that the light coming through them interplays to enhance the diamond's brilliance, or sparkle.

Round is the most popular diamond shape, and the round brilliant cut is probably the most popular version of that cut. Today's round brilliant diamond has a total of fifty-eight facets, but you'll see varying facet numbers in vintage brilliant cut diamonds.

Another popular brilliant cut is the Princess Cut diamond, a square gemstone.

Step Cut Diamonds - A step cut diamond has sloping, four-sided facets that are cut below the table and run parallel to the diamond's girdle.

There are fewer facets in some step cut diamond than in a brilliant cut diamond. Here's an example -- the baguettes set on each side of the center diamond in this engagement ring are examples of step cut diamonds.

Emerald Cuts are step cuts with their corners clipped off. They are usually rectangular, although their proportions can differ significantly, from very narrow rectangles to squares. Emerald cut diamonds tend to have more facets than baguette diamonds but the same amount as a round brilliant cut diamond, 58.

Vintage Diamond Cuts

Old Mine Cut: This diamond cut is a square cushion shape, but with gently rounded corners and brilliant-style facets. The crown is typically high, the table is small, and the culet is large enough to be visible through the top of the stone.

Old European Cut: A diamond cut that is much like the old mine cut, but round in shape.

Cushion Cut: Another diamond cut that resembles the old mine cut, but the gemstone is more of a rectangle.

Rose Cut: A vintage diamond cutting style, with brilliant-type facets arranged in groups that make the gemstone resemble an opening rosebud.

Asscher Cut: Developed early in the twentieth century and popular again today. This diamond cut resembles an emerald cut, but is square, with wide step facets and deep clipped corners that make the diamond look like an octagon. The Asscher cut produces more fire than you see in a typical step cut diamond. 

Color
A truly colorless diamond is extremely rare.  Most diamonds possess varying degrees of yellow or brown and small, subtle differences in color can make a substantial difference in value. If a diamond is well cut, the diamond's refraction and dispersion often will disguise certain degrees of coloration. Unless a diamond is a fancy color (or any color other than colorless to light yellow or brown), the American Gem Society Color Grading System places it on a 0 to 10 scale, 0 being colorless. To accurately and consistently grade color, an American Gem Society experienced grader will utilize special lighting to compare the diamond being graded to a set of American Gem Society Master Color Comparison Diamonds, which have met exacting standards of cut, color, clarity, and carat weight.

Diamond Color Designations

• D, E, F - colorless (white)
• G, H, I, J - near colorless
• K, L, M - faint yellow or brown
• N, O, P, Q, R - very light yellow or brown
• S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z - light yellow or brown

Clarity
Clarity is the evaluation of a diamond's internal and external characteristics. The fewer inclusions or blemishes, the more desirable rare and valuable the diamond. Inclusions are internal, that is, inside the diamond. Crystals are merely minerals trapped inside the diamond; feathers are internal breaks also trapped inside the in the diamond. Blemishes are usually very small and are only on the surface of diamonds. To locate these tiny characteristics, an American Gem Society member jeweler will use a binocular microscope that magnifies the diamond ten times. Then, evaluating the size, location, nature, number, and color of all the inclusions and blemishes, a clarity grade from 0-10 is assigned – 0 being flawless or internally flawless.    

Diamonds with few flaws, or inclusions, are very rare and highly valued. Clarity is graded based on the number, location, size, and type of the inclusions found in a diamond. Bespoke Diamond has some of the clearest diamonds available. Learn how to choose the right grade of clarity for your diamond.

Diamonds that are absolutely clear are the most sought-after rare and therefore the most expensive. But many diamonds have inclusions - scratches, trace minerals or other tiny characteristics that can detract from the pure beauty of the diamond. The GIA use a detailed system of rules and standards to summarize the number, location, size, and type of inclusions present in a diamond.

FL, IF Diamonds: Flawless: No internal or external flaws. Internally Flawless: No internal flaws. Very rare and beautiful diamonds.

VVS1, VVS2 Diamonds: Very, Very Slightly Included: Very difficult to see inclusions under 10x magnification. An excellent quality diamond.

VS1, VS2 Diamonds: Very Slightly Included: Inclusions are not typically visible to the unaided eye. Less expensive than the VVS1 or VVS2 grades.

SI1, SI2 Diamonds: Slightly Included: Inclusions are visible under 10x magnification, and may be visible with the unaided eye. A good diamond value.

I1, I2, I3 Diamonds: Included: Inclusions are easily visible under 10x magnification, and be visible with the unaided eye.

Carat
The standard used to measure diamond weight is the carat.  A carat equals 1/5 of a gram (or 1/142 of an ounce).  Each carat is further divided into points, each point representing 1/100th of a carat. While weight may be the least important of the four Cs in determining value, it may be the easiest of the four Cs to gauge accurately and is the most objective. As diamonds increase in size, their cost tends to increase geometrically. Thus, a one-carat diamond may cost more than twice as much as a one-half carat stone of equal quality. Also, as previously stated, weight does not always enhance the value of a diamond. In fact, when a diamond is improperly cut, added weight may serve only to reduce its brilliance. For these reasons, you should consult with an American Gem Society or GIA titleholder regarding the question of carat weight.

BEAUTIFIED.   RARIFIED.   CERTIFIED.

There is no physical difference between a diamond that is certified and one that is not. A certificate does not change the nature of a diamond in any way. The difference between a certified and an uncertified diamond is that, with the certified diamond, you have tangible, legal assurances as to the particular nature and quality of the diamond you are purchasing.

A certified diamond comes with a diamond grading report guaranteed by an accredited gem lab. This report assures the customer that the diamond is independently recognized as possessing all the qualities specified by that report. Many VMB diamonds are certified by either GIA or AGS. When you buy a certified diamond, you are getting a diamond with beauty and pedigree. Try our loose diamonds database to find GIA certified diamonds.

On the other hand, an uncertified diamond is not accompanied by a diamond grading report and therefore its stated quality is based only on the word of the seller. An uncertified diamond is not necessarily a bad diamond; certainly, it can be as beautiful as its certified counterpart. However, we encourage our customers to buy certified diamonds for the following reasons:

1. Shopping for certified diamonds allows you to make an informed choice about your selections, and to comparison shop.
2. You can compare one diamond with a particular weight and quality with other diamonds of similar weight and quality to determine which is the better value.
3. With uncertified diamonds, it is difficult to determine whether the quality assessments of one jeweler will be as stringent and precise as the judgments of other jewelers; that is, not all jewelers may agree about the quality of an uncertified diamond. This is why any uncertified diamonds at VMB Jewelers have been graded by a Graduate Gemologist (GIA) from our staff
4. A diamond grading report adds value to a diamond. The quality assessments made by independent labs, such as GIA or AGS, are recognized worldwide. These quality assessments are used by appraisers to determine the insurance or replacement value of your diamond.
5. If you purchase an uncertified diamond, there is no guarantee that the appraiser will appraise your diamond at the same level at which the jeweler who sold it to you did.
6. A diamond grading report adds an increased comfort-level to your purchase. Because the quality of your purchase has been independently verified, you can feel assured that you have made a wise purchase and that you have received exactly what you have paid for.

Remember: GIA and AGS are considered the industry leaders, and the final word on gem quality, among diamond dealers worldwide.  

Take the Guesswork Out of Diamond Buying

The key to a diamond’s value is its rarity, and no two diamonds are alike. Rarity is determined by a diamond's unique characteristics as measured by the Four Cs: Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat Weight. Using these criteria, a small diamond of exceptional quality will likely be more valuable than a larger diamond of lower quality. Diamond professionals use these four factors to describe and classify diamonds. When taken together, they help in evaluating the finished diamonds you buy. That's why they are often called value factors.

To provide you with an easy way of understanding diamond value guidelines, your personal VMB jeweler invites you to take a "virtual diamond buying shopping trip”. This special online tutorial from the Gemological Institute of America's "The Four Cs: A Diamond Primer”, easily provides you with a basic understanding of the Four Cs so that you’ll be able to make an informed decision when the time comes to make your special diamond purchase.

Click Here and learn How To Take The Guesswork Out Of Diamond Buying!

INSIDER INSIGHT:
What’s The Average Carat Weight of a Diamond Engagement Ring in 2008

The diamond engagement ring is a symbolic gesture usually received by the bride to be from her future spouse. Diamond engagement rings come in a variety of styles and sizes these days and no matter what one may desire with regard to this type of ring they are sure to find one which perfectly suits their tastes. Some individuals who are shopping for an engagement ring may wonder what carat weight is the appropriate one to purchase and what most people buy when it comes to diamond size. The following will highlight some trends with regard to carat size and focus on what the average carat weight of a diamond engagement ring is in 2008.

Past Carat Weight Trends
In the early 20th century, diamond carat weights were quite generous. In 1939, the average carat weight of engagement ring diamonds was 1 carat. A couple of decades later in 1976, the average carat weight of diamond engagement rings actually decreased to a 1⁄4 carat. The fluctuation in the average size amounts can be seen for a few different reasons such as the cost of the diamonds and the overall average income of the population at that time.

Current Carat Weight Average and Differences Seen in Various Areas
Today, the national average for the diamonds chosen for engagement rings with regard to carat weight is 0.38 carats. In general, the carat weight averages of engagement ring diamonds are increasing. However, in order to truly understand the average relating to diamond carat weight for engagement rings it is important to look at the specific regions in which the engagement rings are being purchased as trends can be seen throughout these areas as well.

Larger cities such as Boston, Philadelphia and New York City have an average of 1.6 carats as it relates to diamond engagement rings. When viewing diamond carat weight averages in some of the Southern states and "Bible Belt" regions, the carat averages are anywhere between 0.25 and 0.40 carats. The state of Alabama has an average of 0.50 carats when it comes to diamond carat weights for those who are about to be married. When considering the entire state of California, the diamond carat weight average has been seen as over 1.0 carats. Focusing in on a more specific region within California such as the La Jolla/Del Mar area, the carat size is quite generous and is stated to be around 2.75 carats. When looking at carat weights with respect to engagement rings outside of the United States, such as in Europe, the average there is 0.30 carats and the stone within the engagement ring is not always a diamond gemstone.

In general, the average size of one's diamond engagement ring is increasing. With regard to the cost of such a beautiful ring, the average price spent on a diamond engagement ring these days is somewhere between $2500 and $3000. Although many have heard the notion that a diamond engagement ring should be at least 1 carat in weight, this is a relatively new sentiment. The fact of the matter is that a diamond engagement ring should suit the individual it is being given to and should be affordable to the person buying it. The true purpose surrounding it is the thought and love with which it is given.

© Greene, James. "Diamond Engagement Ring Size - What Is The Average Carat Weight of a Diamond Engagement Ring in 2008." EzineArticles 08 March 2008.

The Shape of Your Future - It is important not to confuse the cut of a diamond with its shape. As shown in the 4C's section of The Jewelry Insider, diamonds can be cut into a number of shapes, depending on the qualities of the rough stone before it is cut. Popular diamond shapes are Round, Marquise, Pear, Emerald, Oval, Heart, Princess, Radiant and Trilliant.